The two things that make a mower a mulcher are the doughnut shape of the deck and the multi-pitch blade. The outer section of the blade pulls grass up and cuts it. The air currents inside the deck then keep clippings swirling around long enough to be chopped into fine pieces. Finally, the blade's inner curve creates enough air pressure to force the tiny clippings down into the turf, where they decompose.

For a beautiful lawn
You don't need to bag grass clippings to have a beautiful lawn. University studies indicate lawns stay green and grow vigorously when grass clippings are returned.

Saves Time
If you don't bag your clippings, you won't have to stop every few minutes to empty your mower bag.

Doesn't Cause Thatch
Research has shown that clippings do not contribute to thatch. Thatch is produced from fibrous portions of the grass plant including the stem and root but not the grass blade. Clippings are part of the grass blade and retain 80-85% water. They decompose quickly. Thatch formation is enhanced when homeowners apply too much fertilizer or over-water their lawns causing excessive growth.

Cuts Fertilizer Bills
"Leaving grass clippings on your lawn can generate up to 25% of your lawn's total fertilizer needs for a year," says Dr. Art Bruneau extension turf grass specialist at North Carolina State University.

Conserves Water
Grass clippings left on lawns conserve water because they protect the soil from the hot sun and thereby reduce evaporation. Also, they decompose into water absorbent humus.

Mow Often
Don't let your grass get too long before mowing. Adopt the 1/3 rule. Never remove more than one-third of the leaf in any one mowing. In many areas, it's a good practice to raise mowing height in the summer to reduce heat buildup and protect the growing grass from heat damage.

Aerate Your Lawn
In the spring, you may want to consider renting an aerator which removes cores of soil from the lawn. This opens up the soil and permits greater movement of water, fertilizer and air increasing the speed of decomposition of the grass clippings and enhancing deep root growth.

Don't Over-Water
During the driest period of summer, lawns require at least 1" of water every five to six days. Most sprinklers apply 1/4" to 1/3" of water per hour, so they need to run approximately four hours in one spot. If water runs off the lawn before 1" is applied, turn the sprinkler off, let the water soak in for an hour, then continue watering.

10 Best Tips On Mowing With A Mulcher For The Best Performance
Times are changing - Growing numbers of communities are passing laws and ordinances prohibiting the collection of lawn debris - Thus a mulching mower is the answer to many homeowners.
1. Mow often .....every 5 days under normal conditions, every 7 days under dry conditions.
2. Mow slowly...walk at an easy, relaxed pace.
3. Mow with the engine at full throttle for best performance...the throttle controls the blade speed.
4. Mow with a clean mower ....avoid grass build-up under the deck.
5. Mow with a sharp blade ...a sharp blade cuts cleaner.
6. Mow only when grass is dry...wet grass causes clumping.
7. Mow at higher cutting heights...cut no more than 1" to 1.5" of grass length with each mowing.
8. Mow twice at different height settings (high, then low) if grass is extra tall.
9. Keep your lawn clean, healthy and fertilized.
10. Read your owner's manual carefully ...understanding your mower's operation will help ensure optimum performance.

Mulching Mower Information
With more towns and villages outlawing the grass clipping disposal pick-up, there is significant opportunities in mulching mowers. Recycle Your Yard! How do you do this? From now on don't bag your lawn clippings, recycle them. Forget those long-held beliefs that grass clippings left on a lawn "smother" the grass underneath or cause thatch buildup. This is not true according to lawn experts. It's been found that thatch is not made up of clippings but of roots, leaf sheaths and rhizomes. Grass clippings rapidly decompose in the lawn because they contain very little ligin, the component that resist decomposition. Roots and rhizomes contain higher levels of ligin and are more resistant to decomposition and therefore contribute more to the development of thatch. So you don't think thatch. Instead, think about the nutrients being returned to your lawn from the leftover grass clippings. One bag of grass clippings equals almost one-quarter pound of organic nitrogen. Because of this, leaving grass clippings on a lawn will reduce your fertilizer bill. The clippings will also reduce water loss from the lawn and will lower the soil temperature. To maximize the advantages of leaving your clippings on the lawn, care specialists recommend:

1. Remove no more than one-third of the leaf surface area with each mowing. For example, if the mower is set at a height of two inches, the lawn should be mowed when it reaches a height of three inches.
2. Mow when the lawn is dry.
3. Use a sharp blade. A dull mower blade bruises and tears the grass plant, resulting in a ragged tarnish
appearance at the leaf tip.

Recycling our lawn is a benefit all around. Your lawn will love you, your back will love you, and your fellow citizens will appreciate the effort you are taking to ensure a future for us all.

Proper Mowing
Like your garden plants, your lawn requires a healthy foliage and root system to maintain an attractive and healthy appearance. The rule of thumb is that you should never remove more than the top third of the grass blade. Like the leaves of all plants, they transform sunlight into new cells that result in new foliage and root growth. While there is an old belief that taller grass promotes deeper roots, that is not always the case. Root strength and depth is also related to the species being grown, the permeability of the soil, amount of rainfall or watering and proper feeding. During the spring and early summer, when lawn growth is most active, you will probably need to mow at least weekly. During the hotter months, growth will slow and you can mow less often. Generally, you should mow when the grass reaches half of the height of a regular mowing. If the lushest and greenest growth occurs at about two inches, then you should mow again when it reaches three inches.

To Top

What is Proper Height?
Different species have different growth patterns. Grasses that grow in an upright pattern should be cut high to allow sunlight to reach as much of the leaves as possible. Those that creep or bend should be cut lower, at about an inch, or even less. Bluegrass and fescue should be kept at about an inch and a half during the spring and fall when weather is cooler and allowed to reach two inches during hot, dry summer weather or in shady or sloped conditions, when the grass undergoes a more challenging growth situation. If your lawn covers a large area, and you desire a meadow-like appearance, consider three inches the maximum. Growing it taller can lead to thinning in open areas. Following periods of lengthy rain, when growth gets out of hand, raise mower height for the first cut and recut again to normal height a day or two later, to avoid shocking the plants and turning them brown. Damp or spongy lawn can cause the mower wheels to leave sunken paths and too short a cut. Here is where the one-third rule is applicable.

That Scraggly Look
When your lawn assumes a scraggly, unkempt look in spite of proper mowing and maintenance, dull mower blades can be the problem. Instead of cleanly cutting the grass leaves, they tear and shred them, leaving a whitish overtone that will turn brown in a few days. Rotary blades should, ideally be sharpened on a monthly basis, and reel mowers once annually. Bahial and other coarser varieties of grass will have a more dulling effect on the blades, possibly requiring more frequent sharpening. Newly planted grass can also appear scraggly after mowing, even with the sharpest mower blades. This situation will resolve itself as the grass widens and strengthens.

What is Thatch?
Thatch is a tight, interlaced layer of decomposed plant matter that lies between the grass and the soil it needs for nourishment. Once it decomposes it provides valuable organic matter. When it doesn't do so fast enough, it forms an impermeable lawn that keeps air, water and fertilizer from reaching the grass roots. And, the thicker the thatch is, the greater the problem. Too often, however, people blame thatch when the real problem may be improper mowing, fertilizing or watering. All lawns have some measure of thatch and it can be beneficial when it disintegrates at a proper rate. But a layer more than a half-inch thick requires proper removal with the right equipment. Thatch can cause problems: scalping when mowing; difficulty in mowing (as wheels sink into it); increased susceptibility to disease and insect damage; reduced effectiveness of fertilizer, insecticide and fungicides; and reduced tolerance to drought and heat. Grass will root into the the dry thatch instead of moisture-retaining soil. Note that as the depth of thatch increases, depth of root growth and thickness of blade development increases.

Proper Thatching
Consistent use of mowers with collection systems reduces the need to dethatch. However, when you do dethatch you improve drainage for air, water and fertilizer to reach the grass roots. After dethatching, use an aerator to perforate compacted lawns, allowing penetration of air, water, seed, fertilizer and water thoroughly. For several thatch problems, it may be necessary to repeat this process the following season.