1. Take out drain plug and filler plug

2. Drain oil

3. Put drain plug back in

4. Take out oil level check plug

5. Fill oil up to oil level check plug hole

6. Put check level and filler plugs back in

1. Take out drain plug

2. Drain oil

3. Fill oil to upper groove of dipstick

1. Remove old filter

2. Apply a small amount of engine oil to the rubber seal of the new filter.

3. Tighten filter quickly until it touches the mounting surface.

4. Tighten filter an additional ½ turn.

5. When a new filter is installed, engine oil typically decreases a little. Ensure that oil does not leak through the seal of the filter, then refill oil.

Change filter at 50 hours and every 200 hours of use thereafter

Fluid in transmission case is used for hydrostatic drive system, lift and PTO clutch.

1. Take out drain plug at bottom of transmission case and rear axle case and drain into oil pan

2. Put drain plugs back in

3. Slowly refill transmission fluid

4. Run engine for a few minutes, turn off, and check fluid level. Refill as needed.

Run engine at low RPM's after changing fluid or filter to give time for transmission to lubricate

1. Take out drain plug at bottom of transmission case and rear axle case and drain into oil pan

2. Put drain plugs back in

3. Remove old filter with filter wrench

4. Lightly tighten screw that is exposed when filter is removed

5. Apply a small amount of transmission fluid to the rubber seal of the new filter

6. Tighten filter quickly until it touches the mounting surface

7. Tighten filter an additional ½ turn

8. When a new filter is installed, fluid level typically decreases a little. Ensure that fluid does not leak through the seal of the filter, then top off fluid.

Change transmission oil filter cartridge after 50 hours and every 400 hours thereafter. Two filters are used. One for the hydraulic sump and the second before the HST pumps.
 

1. Unlatch air cleaner cover to expose outer element

2. Clean element by using compressed air (no more than 30 psi) on the inside of the element

3. Reinstall element and air cleaner cover

Replace both inner and outer elements yearly

Blades should be kept sharp. If blades appear to be worn, sharpen them, if they are damaged or cracked, replace them.

Replacing:

1. Tilt up mower deck

2. Wedge a block between the blade and deck housing to keep blade from rotating when loosened

3. Use the proper metric wrench to loosen blade counterclockwise

4. Reattach blades to deck

Sharpening:

1. Clamp blade into a vice

2. Use a file along the bevel with a mill file to sharpen

3. Check blade for balance – Put a small rod through the hole in the middle of the blade. Blade will turn to one side if it is not balanced. If blade is unbalanced, file the heavier side until balance is achieved.

4. Reattach blades to deck

Be sure to clean underside of deck when doing service to it.

If cup washer is flattened or worn, replace both even if only one is damaged.

Tighten blade bolts to 72-87 ft-lbs of torque.

1. Mower Driveline universal joints

2. Spindle shafts (3)

3. Belt tension pulley

4. Belt tension pivot

5. Front side anti-scalp roller bracket (60 and 72” decks only)

6. Front side anti scalp roller (60 and 72” decks only)

7. King pin

8. Center pin (where Chassis pivots)

9. Front wheels

10. Motion control lever pivot bushing

11. Motion control lever contact position

12. Seat adjuster